Day 12 - Estella to Los Arcos

675 km to Santiago de Compostela

I am up early again, it is 4 am, but I slept for the first time 7 hours straight. 

Last night we decided to walk to the church of San Pedro de la Rúa almost 1 very long kilometre away despite very sore feet.  We had been told to visit the "claustro".  It is behind the church', probably around 1000 years old, we were alone admiring the art work in the columns when a priest came to walk and pray. It is a peaceful place.  He talked to us and wished us buen Camino.
We walked for a while and came back to the church.  The church is built up in a steep hill. It was probably fortified.  There is a long stairway to get to the portal. The mass took place in a small side chapel.  It filled up with about 25 people, obviously regulars so we stood up like sore thumbs.  The priest came in and was the same we had talked to in the claustro.  Of course he started by introducing us as the Canadian pilgrims.  A little embarrassing.  But then, the mass started, it was magical, we were all so close together in this marvellous mediaeval chapel, it was intimate.  I really felt that I was participating in the last supper.  El Camino strikes again.
After mass the priest invited us to the sacristy where he gave us a pilgrims blessing and stamped our passports.  I felt really good walking back to the hostel with my girl.

This morning we had a good breakfast at a restaurant across from the hostel and started our walk at 8 am.  There was frost in the parked cars it was cool.  We walked through the city and the slope started to increase. Up up again.  After a few kilometres, just outside the city we came to the famous wine fountain for pilgrims. It was still early but a small drink of tinto was nice.  There were several pilgrims there, a couple from South Africa, a lady from California, a young couple from Colorado.  We would walk all day around them.  People tend to get ahead or get behind but with rests and snack stops we would find each other often all day.

We continued going up all morning, up a ridge with beautiful views and through some woods with lots of shade.  Lots of water fountains as we walked by the villages of Irache, Azqueta, and finally Villayor de Monjardin.  That was the highest point for the day, no more climbing.  We got there at noon.  By then we were a little tired.

After that we had 12 kilometres of trail through farmer fields of alfalfa, vineyards and groves of  olive  trees.  The problem was that for over 4 hours we had no water fountains, no shade and no where to seat.  It was brutal. 

So after more than 8 hours we made it to Los Arcos.  We are staying at the albergue la casa de la abuela, grandma's home, and all our friends are staying here too.

We'll be going out for dinner soon and that will be the end of our day.  I am soooo tired.

And I am going on strike.  Tomorrow we will take the bus to Logroño the capital of La Rioja, it is only 25km but if they are like today's I don't want to walk them.  La Rioja is a land of good wine.  We will say good bye to Navarra and its Basque people. 

We are going to spend the weekend in Logroño and start walking again on Monday. After all weekends are for resting.