Our Lady of Guadalupe at the cathedral of Astorga
Monday, March 31, 2014
Day 29 - Astorga
Still 264 km to Santiago de Compostela
A friend from Sweden that I met at the pilgrim's forum sent me a very nice note. She said she had some concern because I have not sound as enthusiastic in this blog as I was at the beginning.
I think she is right. The last few days have been hard times. First the last couple of days walking the Castilla-Leon plateau were hard. Specially the day we had really strong cold head winds with hail first and then rain and nowhere to hide. Then the severe attack of vertigo I suffered in Villadangos when I could barely stand and with pretty horrible nausea and with a visit to emergency to seek medical help. Indeed I was discouraged.
Today It is the 3rd day of rest at Astorga and I am feeling better. My wife as usual is a solid rock of strength for me with her unconditional support no matter what. My mood is improving. I am finding that the discouragement at this stage, here, at the end of the plateau is not unusual. Medical visits and forced days of rest are also common for pilgrims.
They say the pilgrims go through three different crisis, the first one is physical, when the body reacts to this unusual excess of exercise. Boy oh boy! Did I have a physical crisis with my extreme exhaustion that needed medical attention and kept me in Pamplona for 3 days.
The second crisis is emotional and here I am living it now. The discouragement that comes after 3 weeks of walking and the monotony of the plateau (and on top of that my vertigo). I think I am past that one.
The third crisis is a spiritual one so I better get ready for that.
It looks like my experiences are not unusual. So tomorrow we start to walk again. We are being prudent planning for only 10 km. If I get tipsy we can always call a taxi and come back to Astorga. God willing we are on the move.
Today by chance we got to the cathedral half way through mass so we had a chance to be there for communion. After mass walking around the cathedral I found a beautiful image of Our Lady of Guadalupe. She is very dear to me. In fact I am very devout of her. I felt that she was telling me just as she did to San Juan Diego: Am I not here, I who am your mother?
So now I feel I have full support from my Mother Mary and with my dear wife by my side I am ready to take on the mountains of Leon and Galicia. Cruz de Ferro here we come.
Our Lady of Guadalupe, mother Mary, help us, stay with us and please pray for us sinners.
Sunday, March 30, 2014
Day 28 - Astorga
264 km to Santiago de Compostela
Whatever the doctor did to me yesterday seems to be working very well. The nausea is gone and I can walk reasonably well though a little tipsy occasionally. Still, we are going to stay in Astorga another day.
The church of San Bartolomé is next door to our hotel. It is the oldest church in Astorga, from the XI century though additions and enhancement were made on the XIV and XVI centuries. The altar is churrigueresque and you can appreciate it in the attached picture ( see other post for today). We attended Sunday mass there and were impressed by the choir and the number of children and teens. Sadly, often we found only older people in Spain's churches.
Later walking in the plaza I approached a pilgrim just to chat and wish a Buen Camino (the standard pilgrim greeting). Well, she happened to be Karen, a lady I befriended months ago in the pilgrim's forum. She asked where we were from and when we answered Canada she said Gil! What a surprise. She Is delightful, we had lunch with her and later on we saw her again. I would not be surprised if we become life long friends.
Later in the afternoon we were in our hotel when we heard drums. We went out to have a look and there was another concert of brass and drum bands from cofradias (religious brotherhoods). There were 6 or 8 bands, a couple with more than 75 members. The bands included men and women, adults, teens and even little kids, all with very elaborate uniforms. They perform this concerts as practice for the Easter parades that precede Good Friday.
It was an interesting and rewarding day in el Camino (even if we are not walking).
San Bartolomeo, apostle of Jesus, friend of Santiago, pray for us.
Saturday, March 29, 2014
Day 27 - Villadangos del Paramo to Astorga
295 km to Santiago de Compostela
I woke up in the middle of the night with the room spinning; vertigo!
I realised that as long as I did not move I was fine. So that was the rest of the night. In the morning I managed my routine and even to go for breakfast.
After that things got worse. I got the nausea that accompanies vertigo. By then we knew that walking would be impossible. We knew that even the hotel was closing at that little village for the weekend so we had to move.
With a lot of trouble we made it to the bus, not a pleasant trip, and to Astorga. We found a nice hotel and I have been seating on a comfortable chair and sleeping most of the time. Every time I move I get dizzy and lying down is impossible. We are going to try to wait it out.
Later, I kept getting sick every time I moved so finally I agreed to go to emergency. As in Pamplona, the doctor and the nurses were very kind. After all kinds of checkups the doctor confirmed severe vertigo. They gave me medications intravenously and by injection and sent me back to the hotel to rest. It looks like we will be camping here for 2 or 3 days.
Our Lady o Guadalupe, Mary, my mother, as usual when I am in trouble I come to you. I accept this illness as part of my Camino, please help me to complete the pilgrimage. Pray for us.
Friday, March 28, 2014
Day 26 - Leon to Villadangos del Páramo
317 km to Santiago de Compostela
Today was an uneventful day, the Camino goes through Leon and then continues by the side of a busy highway. We passed through La Virgen del Camino, Valverde and San Miguel and eventually we arrived to Villadangos del Paramo.
Today we saw more pilgrims go by. A couple of French girls, a Dane, and Spaniard. We were slow. My leg was acting up so I needed a more rests than other days.
We followed our pilgrim routine, find a place to stay. Rest a little while, go for lunch, the usual menu consists of two dishes and dessert, go back to our room, shower, wash clothes have a nap and then go and buy provisions for the next day.
Later we went to mass to the church of Santiago el Mayor, St James the Great, there is a picture of the altar and the retablo. At the centre is the image of Santiago Matamoros, St. James the Moor slayer.
It is said that after the moors invaded Spain in the VIII century, the Spanish christians were loosing battle after battle. In 844 king Ramirez of Castile, the day before a battle against a stronger moor army, dreamed that Santiago promised he would help. The next day was the battle of Clavijo, when the odds where turning in favour of the Moors, Santiago appeared on a white horse with a white standard and charged. The battle then turned in favour of the Christian army and they succesfuly defeated the Moors. That is the origin of the story of Santiago Matamoros.
Santiago, protect us and help us to complete this pilgrimage to your cathedral. Pray for us.
Thursday, March 27, 2014
Day 25 - Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon
335 km to Santiago de Compostela
We decided that we would rather walk in Leon than walk to Leon. Mancilla de las Mulas is just over 17 km from the centre of Leon. We woke up early and took the 7:45 am bus to the city.
The three most notable features of Leon are the cathedral of Santa Maria de la Regla, the Real Colegiata de San Isidoro and el Parador de San Marcos.
We had visited the cathedral last year but we started by participating in mass there. The mass was in a chapel that we accessed through a side door but even in this small sample of the cathedral you can admire the splendour of this church.
The building was started in the XIII century and completed by the XVI century. It is Gothic in style. It is one of the three most important cathedrals in el Camino de Santiago. The other two are the cathedrals of Burgos and of Santiago de Compostela.
After the cathedral we went to check in the Parador de San Marcos. We had decided to treat ourselves to some luxury after all the albergues and hostels where we have stayed.
Once we had a room assured we went to visit San Isidoro. The basilica is from the XI century. The royalty of Leon assisted its development and negotiated bringing the relics of several saints to this basilica. It also became the pantheon of the royalty. Several Leonese kings, queens and nobility are interred there. The museum hoses amazing pieces of religious art.
After lunch we returned to the Parador and did a tour of the building. It stated as a convent - hospital by the side of the Camino de Santiago in the XII century. In the XVI century the hostal is built yo host the Military Order of Santiago. This order had married monks, religious monks and military monks or knights. The religious monks with the assistance of the married monks look after the physical and spiritual needs of pilgrims while the knights protected the pilgrims and fought in the war of the "reconquista" against the moors.
The building includes the Parador (a hotel), a museum and a church. We did a self guided tour of the building which contains a good number of pieces of religious art.
It feels like we are living 1000 years of history. I cannot even imagine what has happened or who has been in the room we are staying.
Santa Maria de la Regla, pray for us.
Wednesday, March 26, 2014
Day 24 - El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas
359 km to Santiago de Compostela
We woke up to find a light layer of snow outside the hostel. After a light breakfast we started our walk at 8 am.
It was cold, the weather report said we had a wind chill of -5 C. It was windy again but not as bad as yesterday. But it was Sunny!
Again, very flat countryside, few trees or bushes. Farmer fields as far as we could see and no cover from the wind anywhere. We walked alone. We only saw two Spanish pilgrims once, when they went by (we are slow, remember?).
There is nothing for 14 km, so when we finally came to a village, we stopped at a bar for a hot drink. Six kilometres later, at 2 pm we arrived to our objective: Mansilla de las Mulas. Mansilla comes from "mano end Silla", or hand on saddle.
We quickly found a pension and soon after that a place to eat. The meal was excellent and the hostess Monica helpful and charming.
The village is small but it has its origin back to Roman times. The most notable feature are the mediaeval walls. They are still in good shape and include fortified towers and gates. Impressive.
We are only 17 km from the centre of Leon so tomorrow we'll take the city bus and instead of walking into the city we will play tourists and walk in the city.
St. Francis of Assisi, you walked these trails. Guide us and protect us. Pray for us.
Tuesday, March 25, 2014
Day 23 - Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero
375 km to Santiago de Compostela
It was supposed to be an easy walk. The Castilian plateau is fairly flat and while we had a slight constant climb we figured it would be OK. It was chilly when we left around 7 am; around 0 C. We started walking pretty fast but soon a headwind started.
The trail is good, of dirt, well maintained with a slight slope. But the weather was rotten and it got worse and worse. By 9 am we had a pretty strong head wind. Now reading the weather reports we see we had gusts of up to 80 km/hour. An hour later hail started. Small pellets like sand, pretty hard on the face. The wind kept blowing my hood off and the backpack covers. An hour later a very cold hard rain hit us - right on the face. We walked the last couple of kilometres with a young German and a middle age Frenchman.
We were very tired, cold and wet when we finally arrived to El Burgo Ranero. Our friends continued but we decided we could not go any farther. We found a hostel which had a room and a meal and that was the day for us.
By the pedometer we walked about 20 km in 6 hours, very fast for us. I guess we were in a hurry to find shelter. Without a doubt this has been the hardest walk so far.
When we woke up from our siesta and looked out the window the hail was coming hard and flying almost horizontal because of the wind. We are spending the rest of the day indoors.
My wife to informs me than despite the two days off this week we have walked 125 km.
I asked the hostess what is a Burgo, after all it is the name of the town, she did not know but Google informed me that in the middle ages a Burgo was a fortification or a castle. Later it was applied to towns that grew around the fort. Thus el Burgo Ranero is the castle where the frogs are.
Today we celebrate the Annunciation, so we can repeat the greeting of the archangel St.Gabriel: Hail Mary full of grace.
Monday, March 24, 2014
Sunday, March 23, 2014
Day 22 - Burgos to Sahagun
Still 501 km to Santiago de Compostela
An uneventful day. We walked a bit around the cathedral in Burgos, then we took the bus to Sahagun. The bus had free WiFi and a movie. I was surprised to find 5 more pilgrims in the bus. Still I missed the walk but we now should be able to get to Santiago by Good Friday.
We walked a bit in Sahagun and found a convent where we participated in mass in the evening. It is a special experience to attend mass with the nuns. Their prayers and chants make a difference.
Sahagun is the birthplace of Fray Bernardino de Sahagun, a name well known to any Mexican. He was born in 1499 and early on the XVI century he travelled as a missionary to New Spain. While his main work was as a missionary He has been called the first anthropologist for his work on the "Historia General de las Cosas de la Nueva España". A comprehensive work on the life, customs, language and culture of the Aztecs. He also founded the first school of higher education in America, El Colegio Imperial de Santa Cruz de Tlatelolco. He died in Mexico in 1590.
After a month in Spain there are things that still puzzle us. The schedules for us are difficult to deal with. In the larger towns they are fairly well defined but
somehow I cannot get used to find everything closed between 2 pm and 4:30 pm. Pretty well everything closed on Saturday afternoon and on Sunday. In the smaller towns is touch and go. The food store may have hours listed at the door but the owner may decide to open late or go for coffee and close early or may be not even open at all. So if we find a store open we need to make sure we have enough food for the next day, in particular Saturday mornings.
Tomorrow early morning we will be back to our pilgrimage.
Hail Mary full of grace pray for us sinners and help us get closer to your son Jesus.
Saturday, March 22, 2014
Day 21 - in Burgos
501 km to Santiago de Compostela
Burgos, the home of el Cid Campeador, the Lord Champion, Don Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar, a knight and military leader and Spanish hero from 1000 years ago. A knight of legend. The cathedral of Burgos is one of the largest in Spain and one of the most beautiful and contains the tomb of the Cid. When I was a kid I dreamed of being a superhero, a knight, a champion of Christendom like el Cid.
This morning we went to Sunday mass in the cathedral and later to the museum of evolution of man. The museum is link to the archaeological digs we visited yesterday and complements what we saw yesterday. The evolution of man has been one of my interests since high school when I read about the discovery of the skull of Australopithecus Africanus and later when I read " The human phenomenon" by Pierre Teilhard de Chardin.
We did not want to eat in the tourist area so I approached an older local couple, well, as old as me, and asked for a good restaurant where they eat. They very kindly walked us to a nearby hotel. Well, lunch was an excellent full meal in a very nice environment and not expensive.
Then we came back to our hotel and reviewed our plans and schedule. We lost 3 days in Pamplona with my incident of exhaustion. We are walking slower than planned because of my chronic leg pain. Being realistic we are behind schedule. Painfully we had to accept that we need to recover some days so we are going to skip 100 km, that is 5 or 6 days for us, and take the bus to Sahagun.
We still think that we can push ourselves a little and complete the last 400 km in time for Easter.
A little disappointed but the years sometimes are heavier than the backpack. My teammate, my woman, my girlfriend, my love, is totally supporting and she says that she is not only learning to be patient, she is learning to love being patient.
God willing we will still be in Santiago for Good Friday.
Saint Therese of Lisieux, you never got what you really wanted in life, to be in the missions. Still, you accepted your limitations and taught us how to become saints with the little things of life. Please pray for us.
Day 20 - Agés to Burgos
523 km to Santiago de Compostela
Again we started early and arrived to the town of Atapuerca by 9 am. From there we walked to the visitor receiving centre for the archaeological park.
A bus came to take us to the excavations and we had a witty and funny archaeologist as a tour guide. This is probably the most important dig in the world. They have found up to 300 humans and humanoids from different ages starting with a young girl of about 20 who lived 1,300,000 years ago. Her bones show signs that she was cannibalised. Very interesting. Tomorrow we will try to visit the museum of evolution in Burgos which complements what we saw today.
The tour ended at 2 pm and we still had over 20 km to go. We started by climbing yet one more hill to Alto Cruzeiro. The day had been getting colder, around 4 or 5 C but with strong winds. We really could not find anything to eat so we went without lunch and only the fruit we had left. From there we walked another 10 km to Villafria. We had some rain and more very cold wind. Villafria is a suburb of Burgos so we gave up and took a city bus to downtown. This saved us about 5 more km of cold and rain.
We are set up in a very nice hotel near the centre of the city and it is costing us less than a room in most of the albergues. We got a nice pilgrim discount.
Too early for Spanish dinner we went to the corner cafeteria and had nice burgers for dinner.
It was a long day, in total we walked just over 20 km and with the cold and rain both of us are very tired.
It is 9 pm so good night
St. Francis of Assis, you are an example of humility, teach us to be like you. You walked el Camino de Santiago 800 years ago. Protect us during our journey and pray for us.
Friday, March 21, 2014
Day 19 - Villafranca Montes de Oca to Agés
538 km to Santiago de Compostela
The albergue de San Anton, where we stayed last night is a restored pilgrims hospital from the XVI century. There is so much history everywhere around here.
As usual we were ready at 7:30 am, looking for breakfast we found the only place open was "el Pajaro", the bird, the truck stop. But the only breakfast was coffee, packaged donuts or buns and orange juice.
The montes de Oca were famous in the middle ages because of the bandits that assaulted all the pilgrims crossing this mountains. We were happy to learn they are all gone.
The first half hour we climbed 200 metres in just 1.5 km of very steep hills but the views were amazing. We could see clearly the snowed peaks of the Sierra de Millan. The morning was cloudy and cool, around 6C, and very windy. The vegetation changed over quickly to evergreen woods. Everything around was
beautiful.
After the Alto de Mojapan, the way was a bit easier but still with more hills. Soon we arrived to the monument of the fallen, Monumento de los caidos, here, in 1936, during the Spanish civil war, 300 men were executed by firing squad. During the construction of a highway a mass grave was discovered. A sad spot in el Camino.
From there, there are 8.5 km of evergreen woods, a nice mountain walk (and more hills) to San Juan de Ortega.
San Juan de Ortega was a disciple of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, he continued the work of Santo Domingo to facilitate the way for pilgrims. He build bridges, roads and albergues from Nájera to Burgos. In the XII century, he build a monastery and a church in the town which has his name. His tomb is in the church, a simple stone casket.
We finished the day a few kilometres down the road in the town of Ages. We are now a short distance from the town and the archeological zone of Atapuerca. Pretty exciting. I will explain tomorrow. And we expect to get to Burgos tomorrow night.
San Juan de Ortega, pray for us.
Thursday, March 20, 2014
Day 18 - Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca
551 km to Santiago de Compostela
The house where we stayed last night is very old. Our room was OK it very cold. The Spanish are a lot more stingy with heat than we are. We had a little portable heater but it was not quite enough. Our bathroom was down the hall so it was a very cold trip in the middle of the night. Our hosts were very nice, a woman from Nicaragua married to a Dutch.
They got up at 6:30 am to feed us breakfast of orange juice, toast and coffee.
We started to walk at 7:30 am. Again we met our South African friends Hendrik and Sophia and spend time with them on and off. We talked to a Spanish gentleman from Madrid, Goyo, who is just doing a few days of el Camino, we talked to a couple of young Koreans we have seen before. So today we were not alone.
We first crossed the village of Tosantos, from there we could see in the distance a church built into the mountain, it is the Ermita de la Virgen de la Peña. We continued on to Villambista and to Espinoza del Camino. There we stopped at a bar, Brenda wanted a hot chocolate and we sat next to an old lady in her 80s so we were talking to her for a while.
The uphill is tough so we decided to stop after only 13 km (only 4 1/2 hours), because what follows is another 14 km of tougher hills and there is nowhere to stay, no water, no villages.
The name of this place is Villafranca Montes de Oca.
We found a fancy hotel with an albergue attached to it. We got a single room for a reasonable price. Much nicer than what we had the last couple of nights. We do have to cross an 8 bed albergue dormitory to to get to our place but so far there is only a South African lady, Sheila, there.
We had lunch a bar called el Pajaro, the bird, it is a nice restaurant and the meal was excellent. Started with octopus cooked in its ink over rice and followed by deer stew, nice local wine and flan for dessert.
Tomorrow we will climb the Montes de Oca. The mountains of the wild geese. There are actually three peaks each higher than the previous one and the last one, el alto Carnero, is over 300 metres higher than where we are.
So now to rest the afternoon and another short but difficult day tomorrow.
Holy Mary mother of God pray for us sinners now and in the our of our death.
Tuesday, March 18, 2014
Day 17 - Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado
574 km to Santiago de Compostela
Santo Domingo de la Calzada lived in the XI century. He was rejected by the Benedictines so he became a hermit. Seeing pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela go by with great difficulty he decided to help, first by building a wooden bridge over the river Oja. He continued his works all his life by building a calzada or causeway, a hospital and a church for pilgrims, replacing the wooden bridge with a stone bridge which is now called el puente del santo or the saint's bridge. The town grew arount the church and later took the name of the saint.
We left town crossing the river over the Saint's bridge. The first landmark is the cross of the valiant men. It is said that in the middle ages there was a feud between a man from Santo Domingo and another one from Grañon over a disputed land. The man from Grañon won and a modern steel cross now marks the place of the duel.
The Camino is not as interesting as other days. Most of the walking is by a busy highway, very small villages every 3 or 4 km and mostly walking up the hill. We passed through Grañon, Redecilla del Camino, Castildelgado, Viloria de la Rioja (where Santo Domingo was born), and Vilamayor del Rio.
Soon after Grañon we crossed from La Rioja into Castilla and Leon. The land of castles or castillos.
I was so tired I wanted to stop at Vilamayor but when we got there we found both the albergue and the casa rural closed. That meant we had to walk a other 5 km to Belorado. In total we walked 26 km, a new record for us.
What was different this time was that when we got to the iron cross, la Cruz de los Valientes, we met there our old friends from South Africa: Hendrik and Sophia and they introduced us to another couple from Calgary; Karen and Dave. From then on we would be leapfrogging each other or taking breaks with them all day. Once in Belorado we ended in the same pension with Karen and Dave and we had a fun dinner all six of us together.
The good news, the bathroom in the pension we are staying has scales. It looks like I have lost 11 pounds and my GF has lost 8 pounds.
Now to bed early because tomorrow we get to do this all over again.
Today we celebrate Saint Joseph, patron of the families. Saint Joseph pray for our families and for us.
Monday, March 17, 2014
Day 16 - Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada
595 km to Santiago de Compostela
As we leave the town of Nájera, we pass the monastery of Santa Maria la Real. This fortified monastery is built against the cliff that is behind the town. It was built on 1052 by order of king Don Garcia Sanchez III. The legend is that one day while hunting the king followed an animal into a cave in the cliff. Suddenly he found himself in front of an image of Our Lady and around were a bell, a candle and a vase of flowers. As an act of thanks he ordered the construction of the monastery against the cliff and including the cave. The monastery today is famous for its pantheon of kings and queens of Navarra and Castilla. The most famous being the tomb of Doña Blanca because of the artistic carvings.
We left the hostel at 7 am, barely dawn. Nothing was open so we left without breakfast. The way is up the hill for 15 km, the first village is Azofra, 6 km away. The weather changed today. Yesterday lots is sun and around 20 C, today it got cloudy, very windy and temperature of only 6C. It was cold. Yesterday we walked alone, we only saw a polish pilgrim, today we saw lots of people, we talked to Roberto from Monterrey, Mexico and we had breakfast with him in Azofra. We briefly met pilgrims from Holland, Latvia, Korea and Ireland but we saw many more.
At the very top of the Alto is the town of Cirueña, the country club offers pilgrims meals, they are the same than for members but they charge a third so for 5 Euros we had a tapas of chorizo, excellent plate of fish, a drink, salad and desert in a very nice environment.
We are for sure the slowest pilgrims on the Camino. By the time we stopped for lunch everyone was gone and we walked alone the last 6 km to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. It took us 8 hours to walk the 22 km.
Once in town we found our way to the hostel of Santa Teresita. It is run by the Cistercian nuns. As expected the rooms are impeccable and the sister who received us told us the price and said if you cannot afford it don't worry. Wow. Another advantage there is mass this evening in the chapel of the hostel so we don't have to go out.
Now, I know I am being long winded but there is a legend from this town that is said was well known in the middle ages. The legend of the hanged pilgrim. A young man was on pilgrimage with his parents and they stopped at a hostel. The daughter of the host was attracted to the boy but he did not pay attention to her. She was angry so she took a silver cup and hid it in his luggage. As soon as he left she accused him of robbery. The authorities caught up with him and searched his luggage finding the cup. Taken in front of the magistrate he was condemned to be hung by the neck. They proceeded to do that but he did not die. It is said that Santiago was holding him up by the feet. The parents went to the magistrate and told him he was alive. The magistrate was about to eat a roasted rooster and a chicken. He said he is as alive as this chicken I am about to eat. As he said that the feathers came out the rooster and the chicken and they were alive. The magister forgave the young man who continued his pilgrimage with his parents. A white rooster and a chicken are kept by the cathedral of the town.
Santo Domingo de la Calzada, you dedicated your life to God and to help pilgrims. Help us learn your ways to help others. Pray for us.
Dsy 15 - Ventosa to Nájera
706 km to Santiago de Compostela
I have had a nagging pain on the right leg for years but very manageable. Yesterday it got worse and we discovered a big bruce on the leg so after only 12 km I wimped out and decided to stay in the village of Nájera. On the way we passed el Alto de San Anton where we had a fantastic view of la Sierra de la Demanda, covered with snow, and el Pico de San Lorenzo, the tallest mountain in la Rioja.
On the way down to Nájera, we found a resting area with a big sign with another story of Roland. It narrates that as Roland approached this area with his knights he found the giant Ferragut, a Muslim knight, in a castle in Nájera. Ferragut challenged Roland to combat and he accepted. Ferragut weighted over 200 kg and his skin was impenetrable. Roland fought him for 2 whole days with swords, sticks and anything imaginable. When Roland was exhausted he managed to stick his sword in the only place Farragut was vulnerable: in his navel killing him. This way the French paladin gained the title as the best knight of the Christians.
Walking into town we found the Convent of Santa Elena, one of the town notable points, where there is a congregation of the sisters the poor Clarisas. The monastery and claustro are from the XVI century.
Nájera is a small village, the old town is in a narrow area between a mountain and the river. We found several albergues closed but eventually we stayed at a hostel. We found a bar with a nice pilgrim menu and after a good meal retired to rest early. I am hoping that the leg will be in better shape tomorrow.
St. Clair, Santa Clara, you are an example of humility help us follow your example and pray for us.
Sunday, March 16, 2014
Day 14 - Logroño to Ventosa
605 km to Santiago de Compostela
Last night we went a little early to mass and we found a liturgy in progress. There were 7 priests with red capes. There were sent readings a chants. Very impressive. The cathedral itself is an amazing place for mass and any other liturgies.
This morning we left the hostel early, we were alone on the streets. Almost at the end of the old city we found the church of Santiago Real. It is from the XVI century, it has a carving of Santiago Matamoros (the Moore slayer) over the front door and replaced a IX century church that was built to commemorate the battle of Clavijero. It is said that Spanish Christians were loosing a battle against the Moors when Santiago appeared in a white horse and charged. This changed the battle in favour of the Christians who eventually defeated the moors.
The Camino continues thru city streets for a few kilometres, then thru parkland and then up a hill to el alto Grajera. From there we had magnificent vies of Logroño below in the distance.
Early on we find our German friends, Edith and Sue and we walked with them for a while. We will leave them behind and pass them again many times today. The Camino continues through fields and fields of vineyards. This is expected since we are in la Rioja where the best wines of Spain come from.
Later on we walked for a couple of kilometres by a wire fence. Pilgrims have been making crosses with sticks and knitted them through the wires. There are hundreds of crosses.
We arrived at the town of Navarrete and we meet Edith and Sue again. There is a little plaza in front of the church, la Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion. Another XVI century jewel. The ladies left and we stayed to have our lunch. Then Jordyn and Cameron arrived. Jordyn decided to walk despite her hurt knee. It was a nice surprise to see them. Now it was their turn to stay behind eating lunch.
At 3 pm we finally arrived to Ventosa and our hotel, Hotel Agueda. It is very nice. After a shower we went downstairs to find the owners having lunch with friends and family. They received us as if we were old friends.
Another nice surprise, Jordyn and Cameron are staying here too. We had a nice dinner with them.
The bad news, my right leg often hurts because of a pinched nerve. Today it has been particularly bad. I wonder if I can walk tomorrow....
San Juan Diego, friend of Our Lady of Guadalupe, pray for us.
Saturday, March 15, 2014
Day 13 - Logroño
625 km to Santiago de Compostela
Many of our Camino friends, people we met yesterday or before were staying at the same albergue and we had breakfast with them this morning. A couple from South Africa, a lady from California, a gentleman from Brazil, two young couples from the U.S.
We decided yesterday that today would be a rest day so we would take the bus to Logroño. Jordyn, one of the young ladies, has injured her knee so she also took the bus while her boyfriend would walk.
Logroño is an old city. The Celts arrived around the III century, soon after it became a Roman settlement and the pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela came toward the X century and brought progress to the city. Being on the border of the kingdoms of Navarra and Castilla it was witness to many wars. Later on with the establishment of the wine industry the city continued to prosper. The old city still has that mediaeval flavour that have found in this
We were in Logroño by 10 am, we walked to our albergue that is just on front of the cathedral of Santa Maria la Redonda and left there our backpacks. It really has been a day of rest, we had chocolate with churros. The chocolate is so thick you have to eat it with spoon.
We spent the morning walking around with Jordyn, she is a very nice young lady and then we had a nice lunch of paella (me) and pintxos (her). Indeed a rest day.
Walking around one park we found about 8 very large drum bands. The bands have little kids, lots of teenagers and grown ups, men and women. They are church bands that got together to play for lent and in preparation for Easter (see photo).
Coming back to the hostel we found the German ladies we met and walked with a couple of days ago. It was like meeting really old friends. El Camino family.
Tonight, to end the day, we are going to Sunday mass at the cathedral of Santa Maria la Redonda.
Tomorrow we are planning another 20 km walk to the village of Ventosa.
Holy Mary, mother of God, pray for us.
Friday, March 14, 2014
Day 12 - in Los Arcos
After a nap we went to mass to the church of Santa Maria de Los Arcos. It is just amazing.
Thursday, March 13, 2014
Day 12 - Estella to Los Arcos
675 km to Santiago de Compostela
I am up early again, it is 4 am, but I slept for the first time 7 hours straight.
Last night we decided to walk to the church of San Pedro de la Rúa almost 1 very long kilometre away despite very sore feet. We had been told to visit the "claustro". It is behind the church', probably around 1000 years old, we were alone admiring the art work in the columns when a priest came to walk and pray. It is a peaceful place. He talked to us and wished us buen Camino.
We walked for a while and came back to the church. The church is built up in a steep hill. It was probably fortified. There is a long stairway to get to the portal. The mass took place in a small side chapel. It filled up with about 25 people, obviously regulars so we stood up like sore thumbs. The priest came in and was the same we had talked to in the claustro. Of course he started by introducing us as the Canadian pilgrims. A little embarrassing. But then, the mass started, it was magical, we were all so close together in this marvellous mediaeval chapel, it was intimate. I really felt that I was participating in the last supper. El Camino strikes again.
After mass the priest invited us to the sacristy where he gave us a pilgrims blessing and stamped our passports. I felt really good walking back to the hostel with my girl.
This morning we had a good breakfast at a restaurant across from the hostel and started our walk at 8 am. There was frost in the parked cars it was cool. We walked through the city and the slope started to increase. Up up again. After a few kilometres, just outside the city we came to the famous wine fountain for pilgrims. It was still early but a small drink of tinto was nice. There were several pilgrims there, a couple from South Africa, a lady from California, a young couple from Colorado. We would walk all day around them. People tend to get ahead or get behind but with rests and snack stops we would find each other often all day.
We continued going up all morning, up a ridge with beautiful views and through some woods with lots of shade. Lots of water fountains as we walked by the villages of Irache, Azqueta, and finally Villayor de Monjardin. That was the highest point for the day, no more climbing. We got there at noon. By then we were a little tired.
After that we had 12 kilometres of trail through farmer fields of alfalfa, vineyards and groves of olive trees. The problem was that for over 4 hours we had no water fountains, no shade and no where to seat. It was brutal.
So after more than 8 hours we made it to Los Arcos. We are staying at the albergue la casa de la abuela, grandma's home, and all our friends are staying here too.
We'll be going out for dinner soon and that will be the end of our day. I am soooo tired.
And I am going on strike. Tomorrow we will take the bus to Logroño the capital of La Rioja, it is only 25km but if they are like today's I don't want to walk them. La Rioja is a land of good wine. We will say good bye to Navarra and its Basque people.
We are going to spend the weekend in Logroño and start walking again on Monday. After all weekends are for resting.
Wednesday, March 12, 2014
Day 11 - Cirauqui to Estella
688 km to Santiago de Compostela
Last night we had dinner in an old wine cellar under the albergue. Salad and spaghetti and meatballs. Normally one of my favourites but the way it's cooked does not go very well with my stomach. And I slept 3 hours and woke up. I need to sleep!
The company for dinner was good. Two German ladies, an Australian, a gentleman from Argentina and us. Everyone was tired so dinner did not last long. The Australian lady had walked 30km yesterday. Wow!
The hostess told us that we are going to loose a lot of weight and get amazing legs and bottoms. Looking forward to this.
I have to try to go back to sleep, it is 2 am and today I am carrying my backpack for the first time since Pamplona. Fortunately the plan is for only 15 km and the hills are supposed to be reasonable.
I slept a few more hours and up at 6:30 am. The albergue does not have breakfast and we were told there was not a place in the village to eat so we had some fruit and a sweet bun and we were on the move an hour later, at dawn. Coming down from the village we found ourselves on a Roman road. It is amazing to think this road has been used for 2000 years. Imagine a Roman legion traveling to provinces in this exact place...just awesome.
We continue through farmer fields until we arrive today the Rio salado that we crossed over a mediaeval bridge.
There is a journal from the XII century that warns pilgrims not to drink the deadly waters.
Soon after we arrive to the village of Lorca, we stop at a little plaza to catch our breath and drink some water from the pilgrims fountain.
5 km later we arrive to Villatuerta, a larger modern town where we find a cafe and we sit down for a break. From there it is only 4 more km to Estella. Our final destination for today. We are very tired, we find our hostel, el Volante, and a restaurant that serves us a hearty meal of lentil soup and Navarra style trout.
Estella is full of mediaeval surprises. As we enter we see the church of the holy sepulchre. Built in the X century it was closed in 1881 but the facade is outstanding. It has the sculptures of the 12 apostles, 6 on each side of the door. There is a big statue of Santiago and several scenes of the life of Christ.
We stopped by the information office and the lady suggests we visit the new part of town. It was built in the XIII century; the NEW part of town.
To end the day we are going to go to mass at the church of San Pedro de la Rúa. A jewel of Navarra's romanic architecture of the XII century. We have been told there are many religious art pieces from the middle ages to the XVI century to be seen inside the church.
I am really impressed with the heritage left by my Basque ancestors.
Saint Peter, pray for us.
Day 10 - Uterga to Cirauqui
703 km to Santiago de Compostela
We were told there was no breakfast until 8:30 am. When we went down to eat everyone was gone. We would walk alone all day. This is the first day we do not see any pilgrims.
The first part of the walk was downhill through farmer fields, we could see in the distance the windmills up in the Alto del Perdon. Another beautiful day with blue sky and cool temperature, perfect for walking.
A bit after an hour we passed Obanos. We find a store there so we buy some food: half dozen tangerines, a couple of bananas, half a loaf of bread, candies and nuts. We have learned that we need to eat and drink every hour or so.
In this town is the church of St. John the baptist, it contains the skull of Saint Guillaume (William) in a silver reliquary.
Legend has it that Guillaume Duke of Aquitaine killed his sister Felicia when she refused to return to court duties after she came back from a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. His remorse was such that he undertook the pilgrimage and when he returned , he renounced his titles and lived the rest of his life as a hermit in poverty, penance and prayer.
From there, it is only 2km to Puente la Reina. A larger town where we had at chance to visit the church of Santiago. Medieval church with beautiful retablos and a very old statue of the apostle.
We stopped at city hall to get our passports stamped and followed the main street to the bridge that gives its name to the town. The bridge was built in the middle ages by order of Doña Mayor, wife of Sancho III to support the movement of the increasing number of pilgrims. The bridge has 6 arches across the Arga river which is now much bigger than when we crossed it in Puente la Rabia.
Leaving this town we find the most challenging part of the journey. An hour and a half climbing up to the town of Mañeru. We stop to catch our breath at a fountain at the entrance to town. The water is fresh, the breeze is cool. It is nice to seat for a few minutes.
From there it is only 3 km, about an hour to our objective: the town on Cirouqui. This town is at the top of a hill a very visible from Mañeru. We are tired and entering the town we learn that the albergue is at the top of the hill, in the centre of town. The last steep hill.
Following the routine we shower, wash our clothes, rest a bit, dinner and bed.
Santiago, St. James, walk with us, guide us and protect us in your Camino. Pray for us.
Tuesday, March 11, 2014
Day 9 - Pamplona to Uterga
We started with a walk thru the streets of Pamplona. Leaving the city we walked thru farmer fields and the slope slowly started to increase.
Just passing the suburb of Cizus Menor, a Spanish gentleman showed us a romanic church and across the road a mediaeval castle. He explained that the castle belonged to the knights of the order of St John. In mediaeval times bandits would attack the pilgrims climbing to the Alto del Perdon so the knights would escort them to protect them.
Farther up the trail we pass by the ruins of a mediaeval pilgrims hostel, Guendulain, at that height the views of Pamplona below and in the distance are amazing.
We passed the village of Zariquiegui and continue going up.
Almost at the top we find the fuente reniega (renouncement fountain), the legend says that a mediaeval pilgrim was going up the mountain and he was very thirsty. The devil appeared to him as a young man and said: if you renounce God, I'll give you all the water you want. The pilgrim refused, then the devil said if you reject our Lady Mary, I will give you all the water you need. The pilgrim refused again, so the devil said, renounce St James and you will get your water. The pilgrim refused again. Then St James appeared and revealed the fountain to the Pilgrim.
Shortly after that we arrive to the top, the Alto del Perdon. There is a series of figures, sculptures representing pilgrims over the ages. These sculptures are only 20 years old but have become an iconic point of the Camino. The ridge at the top is lined with gigantic electricity generating windmills. There is a sign on one of the figures which reads: donde el Camino del aire she cruza con el Camino de las estrellas. Where the way of the wind crosses with the way of the stars. The way of the wind is represented by the windmills and the way of the stars is el Camino, which goes East to West, following the Milky Way.
Here we meet two young men, Mik from Denmark and Javier from Spain. They are going today all the way to Puente la Reina.
From there there are only 4 km down the hill to Uterga. It is a dangerous steep trail of loose stones. It is going to takes over one and a half hour to get there.
In the way we have crossed paths with a pair of teenage girls from Korea. They speak very little English but they are always smiling. They are going to stay at the same place we are.
Shortly we will have our pilgrim's dinner with the Korean girls, a man from Calgary and some other pilgrims we have not met yet.
Monday, March 10, 2014
Day 8 - Pamplona
This morning we packed, got ready to go and... I felt very tired so we decided to stay one more day in Pamplona.
Easy day, I had a short nap in the morning and another one in the afternoon. We spent most of the day walking slowly and enjoying the views and the atmosphere.
The highlight of the day was Mass at the church of San Fermin. At the end of the Mass, the priest called us up to the altar and gave us a touching and beautiful pilgrim's blessing.
Tomorrow we are going to try to get to Uterga. It is only 15km but we need to climb to the Alto del Perdon. We'll have to see how things go.
San Fermin, patron Saint of Pamplona, bishop and martyr, protect us, guide us in our Camino and pray for us.
Sunday, March 9, 2014
Day 7 - Pamplona
I woke up after 14 hours of sleep. A mandated day of rest. Still tired but feeling better. A short walk to the cathedral of Santa Maria Real and we stayed for mass. The cathedral is a XIV century building. There was an older cathedral at that site but it was destroyed in the X century by the Moors. The old statue of Santa Maria Real is the central figure at the altar. That is the same statue of our Lady in front of which for centuries the kings of Navarra made their oaths. The mass was very ceremonious, the big organ provided the music with a classical choir. The mass was presided by a Monsignor with 2 priests. Very spiritual. After lunch I am ready for a nap.
The Camino de Santiago is a small community. It seems that a lot of people know about the Canadians that are walking slowly. I got a note from Joao from Mallorca, we met him in Zubiri, asking how I was doing. He had heard from another pilgrim that I was having troubles climbing to Roland's pass.
It is said that pilgrims face 3 crisis. The first one is physical, the second emotional and the last one spiritual. I am really having a physical one. Besides my problem with fatigue, there are lots of muscular pains. The body keeps saying: what are you doing to me? Where is my chair? Where is my TV?
I think we will go on tomorrow.
Saturday, March 8, 2014
Friday, March 7, 2014
Day 6 - Zubiri to Pamplona
742 km to Santiago de Compostela
It is 1am and I am up. My sleep patterns are all messed up. Write is something I can do. So a bit of history from this region, Navarra, Basque Country, land of my ancestors.
In the VIII century Charlemagne broght his mighty army into Spain to fight the Moors. In his way back to France, not wanting to leave a fortified city at his back, he destroyed the walls of Pamplona. The Basques were furious. Charlemagne had placed Roland, the paladin, the one of the legend, in charge of his rear guard army. As Roland's Franks started the ascent to the Pyrenees, the Basques using guerilla tactics attacked. the Franks were better armed and organised but the Basques knew the land and with lighter arms could move faster here, in their own mountains. Yesterday we crossed Roland's Pass, it is said that it is there that Roland tried to get help from Charlemagne for the last time. The Basques were relentless. When Roland's army arrived to Roncesvalles, the Basques did their final attack. The Franks were brutally massacred. Roland and most of his knights lost their lives. The Basques disappeared in the mountains. One hundred years later the legend of Roland appeared in France. The lesson of the story: do not anger a Basque.
I don't know how deep we will get into Pamplona but the objective today is to get at least to the suburbs. Leaving Zubiri we cross el Puente de la Rabia, the rabies bridge. It is a mediaeval bridge, it is said that if you lead an animal three times around the central arch, it will be cured of rabies. 5 km from here we arrive to Larrasoaña it will have taken us 3 days to complete the first stage according to the pilgrim's guide.
It took us 3 hours to get to Larrasoaña, according to pedometer 7 km. I was not doing well, I needed to rest very often. Finally, with 1 KLM to go, I got up after a rest and proceeded to pass out in my GF arms. I don't know how we made it to the town. By then I knew I could not walk anymore so we called a cab and ask to be taken to a hotel in Pamplona.
We were already in Pamplona when I got sick and passed out again so the taxi took to an ER. It is amazing how fast they got me in, they did all kind of tests very fast. The doctor said that the problem was simply extreme fatigue. They put an IV to raise my blood pressure and kept me in bed for a while. I am impressed with the Spanish health services.
So now, I am in bed in the hotel. I guess I am going to spend a day or two here.
We realised our objective of getting to Pamplona today but not the way I was expecting.
Superman I am no more.
Santiago, friend of Jesus, guide us, protect us in your Camino, and help accept whatever happens. Pray for us
Day 5 - Biskarreta to Zubiri
752 km to Santiago de Compostela
It is 4:30 am and I am awake. My hip muscles still hurt from yesterday but I feel so much better. I think I am still convalescing from my stay in hospital but I hope i am getting stronger every day. My extreme fatigue from the last few days, I am sure, was caused by jet lag and lack of sleep. Since we arrived to Biskarret I have slept 8 or 9 hours. I feel better.
Today we are walking only 10 km. I need to get used to the 9 kg back pack. Brenda has watched over me with lots of love and patience. I could not do this without her. She is doing much better than me. The physical problems we have are from the way down the hill. She has a sore knee and I have a sore toe.
From here to Zubiri there is another, longer, steep down hill, we will go down over 800 metres in about 4 km; we will have to take it very slow. There are always more injuries going down than going up.
I will add an update tonight.
We made it to Zubiri. 10 km in 5 hours. Beautiful views of the mountains, sunny day, perfect to admire the wonderful world God gave us. But boy! I really suffered the climb to the Alto de Erro. Felipe, who went on to St. Jean yesterday, caught up with us for a little while. I would not be surprised if he is in Pamplona by now.
In the way down to Zubiri we met two other pilgrims one from Texas and the other one from Scotland. We are famous, they recognised us. They have read my entries on the Pilgrims Forum. We just saw them again in front of the albergue.
My tummy is upset so I did not have lunch but I has a soup a few minutes ago. Brenda is going to Mass but I am beat, I am going to bed.
Tomorrow we start going towards Pamplona. It is amazing, the bus took one hour, tomorrow is our 3rd day and we probably won't make it that far.
St Therese de Lisieux, I admire your holiness thru daily little things. Those little things can be so hard. In el Camino there are lots of opportunities. Teach us your ways to holiness. Pray for us
Thursday, March 6, 2014
Day 4 - to Biskarret
We came out of the albergue to the restaurant. We had only black strong coffee for breakfast. And I am very tired.
We got together with Luis, whom we met on the bus from Pamplona and with Peter from NY. One speaks only Spanish and the other one only English. Interesting talking with both of them.
The man at the restaurant suggested we walk on the highway to the first town because the snow is deep on el Camino. After an hour I am exhausted and start to walk very slow. Two hours later Pete decides to leaves and goes ahead. Luis stays with us I think he is concerned about us. Really nice guy.
The walk over the Pyrenees has amazing views but it is windy, it feels cold and my backpack becomes heavier and heavier.
Finally, by noon, we arrive to Biskarret. We have walked only 12 km in 4 hours. Luis says good bye. I am going to miss his company tomorrow. It is amazing how quickly you can make friends on El Camino.
We find a room a the Casa Rural Maitexa. It is a really nice place. Within 30 minutes I've had a shower and I am sound sleep. Got op for lunch and back to bed until supper time.
At supper I find myself on an international community of pilgrims. This is the first group here this year. There are nine of us representing Spain, Latvia, Switzerland, Australia, Italy, France and us from Canada. Very nice and friendly dinner. The young Italian has walked today from Saint Jean. Almost 40 km. He looks less tired than me.
Now I ready for bed.
Holy Mary, mother of God pray for us.
Day 3 - to Roncesvalles
About 760 km to Santiago
Last night I woke up at 3 am, the wife, God bless her slept like a baby until I woke her up at 6:30 am. We skipped mass, we wanted to go to the pilgrims mass in Roncesvalles.
We played the tourist. We went to the museum on Navarra, very interesting. Then we went to a department store called el corte ingles where I got a sim card for my phone, so now I have a Spanish phone. We ate some very fancy pintxos and we went to the cathedral of Santa Maria and its museum.
In one of those walks we met some German and Italian pilgrims who told that the Napoleon pass, from St.Jean to Roncesvalles is closed because there is too much snow and it is dangerous.
By then I was not feeling vary well, really exhausted, so we went back to the hotel and they let me rest, really sleep, in the living room.
At 6 pm we took bus to Roncesvalles. We met several friendly pilgrims. Adriane, a young gal from Nova Scotia, Luis from Navarra, Peter from NY, and later on Sue Yong from Korea and Felipe from Galicia. Our bedroom at the albergue has bunk beds for 18 people. We are on top of each other. I don't know how we are going to sleep. There is no privacy at all but everyone is very nice.
We went to the church for the pilgrims Mass at 8 pm but the mass had been at 6 pm. They changed it because it is Ash Wednesday. Oh well, no ashes, no mass.
We had a pilgrims dinner, it was nice, vegetable soup, trout with fries and yogurt. By 9 pm I was in bed hoping to sleep. Lights out at 10 pm, and sweet sleep. 11 pm I am awake, I need to go to the bathroom. I do not want to wake up all this people if I go to sleep I won't have to go so I wait... But I really really have to go. The trip is a whole adventure, go out the room quietly, into the hall and enter the other bedroom with 16 people. The across to the end into the bathroom. It is a common room with a sink and a urinal. There are also private little rooms two for showers and two for toilets. This for all 34 people.
St. James protect us and help to love everyone around us.
Tuesday, March 4, 2014
Day 2 - Pamplona
We travelled for 24 hours straight. Toronto to Frankfurt and then Madrid and from there a bus to Zaragoza and another one to Pamplona.
Beautiful day, sunny around 15C. That is until we got close to Pamplona and the temperature went down and the rain came pouring in.
We walked in the rain to our hotel; it is only 10 minutes, enough to get all wet. We got our room and went looking for a pintxos bar for a light dinner. It was actually pretty good.
So far the pilgrimage has been tiring but not taxing. Day after tomorrow we start walking. Let the pains begin.
Monday, March 3, 2014
Day 1 - March 3: On our way
I am wearing my pilgrim clothes, my wife insisted on taking my picture. In my defense I will say that I have a technical shirt that weights almost nothing and dries in less than 2 hours. As for the shoes, same thing, they are ultralights, New Balance Minimum, that weight just under 400 grams. I will use them for after the daily walks. What a difference from what the pilgrims wore traditionally in el Camino de Santiago. We are spoiled.
Last weekk, after the stay in the hospital, of course, I came home to find myself with a whopper of a cold that immediately I passed to Brenda. We are better but we decided that we will re-evaluate tomorrow night. If we are not well enough we will stay in Pamplona a day or two until we feel we are ready.
Last night all five of our sons either came to visit or called to wish us well in our pilgrimage. That was really nice of all of them. We are going to miss them and even more so our five grandchildren.
It will be so nice to be in Pamplona, just like summer. The temperature here, right now is -18C, in Pamplona 11C. Hard to believe that we are going to be 29 degrees Celsius warmer tomorrow evening.
In any case, we are all packed, I think we packed and re-packed 20 times in the last couple of weeks. We will be at the airport in a few hours. We fly this afternoon to Frankfurt and arrive at 8 am tomorrow, then on to Madrid where we should arrive around noon. There are buses at Madrid Barajas airport that we can take to go to Pamplona. and we should be there around 7 pm tomorrow. Just in time for a dinner of pintxos.
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