Day 31 -- Santa Catalina de Somoza to Rabanal del Camino

253 km to Santiago de Compostela

We started again almost in the dark, at 8 am,  just on time for sunrise.  The rain was still coming down but more gently than yesterday.  It would continue all day.  The end result, despite the rain jacket, the backpack cover and the poncho is that after 4 hours outside, the boots and socks are wet, the pants, the backpack and the shirt are wet too.  The rain does part and the sweat (which stays inside the rain jacket) does the rest.

The countryside is changing as we continue climbing the mountains of Leon.  There are much nicer views, more trees, and despite the water the walk is more enjoyable and I am feeling much better.  When we finished the 12 km for today, I was not as tired as yesterday and we did it in only 4 hours.

I think I am ready for tomorrow, we are planning for 16 km, which does not sound like much, but we have to reach the Cruz de Ferro, the Iron Cross, this cross marks the highest peak of the Camino and it has a special significance which I will explain tomorrow.  There is another climb after that so we have a little challenge in front of us.

We are now installed in a small hostel in Rabanal del Camino.  Miriam, our hostess, made a very nice meal for us: Vegetable soup and roasted chicken with a very nice salad. She has made us feel at home.  Right now we are the only guests. And we have WiFi!.

This village has only 59 people according to its website but it has a long history.  It started as an outpost of the Templar Knights from their castle in Ponferrada in the XI century.  This warrior monks were here to protect the pilgrims crossing these mountains on their way to Santiago de Compostela.  The town later grew to a population of 600 but in the last few years it has become just a stop for pilgrims.

After a nap we went to the monastery of the Benedictine monks for the liturgy of the hours, the vespers, there were a dozen pilgrims and it was a touching ceremony with the monks chanting in Latin.  At the end one of the monks gave us a beautiful pilgrims blessing.  Very spiritual experience.

Saint Benedict, patron Saint of Europe, pray for the monks at your monastery, all the pilgrims in this Camino and for us.